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The Sazerac Dress Sewalong

Posted by Betsy C on

Thanks for coming along on the sewing journey of the Sazerac Dress! I've designed this pattern to be a relatively easy and quick sew, so let's get started! 

1. Make the pocket: Fold the pocket trim in half lengthwise, with wrong sides together.

2. On the wrong side of the pocket bag, sew the pocket trim to the pocket with 1/2” (1.2cm) seam allowance. 

3. On the wrong side of the pocket bag, Press the seam allowance of the pocket trim and bag down towards the pocket. Understitch the seam allowance to the pocket bag. 

4. Flip the pocket trim over to the right side of the pocket bag and press flat. Baste the trim piece to the pocket bag along the sides.

5. On the right side of the side front piece place the pocket facedown aligning V notches so right sides are together. Sew straight across through both layers.

6. Pull the pocket up matching the top edges to the upper V notches. Baste the pocket bag to the body along each side. Repeat for the opposite side. 

7. Apply the interfacing pieces to the wrong side of the front body center front edges.

8. Fold the outer edges of the long side of the tie in to meet at the center. Iron flat. Fold the length of the tie in half to match the folded edges. Iron flat again. Sew together along the open edge through all layers. Repeat for the opposite side.

9. Position the waist tie above the front pocket bag on the side front body. Baste in place. Tip: Tuck ties into pocket bags to keep them out the the way while you work.

10. With right sides together, sew the center front to the side front with 1/2” (1.2cm) seam allowance. Repeat for the opposite side.

11. With right sides together, sew the center back pieces together with 1/2” (1.2cm) seam allowance. Sew the side back panels to the center back panels with 1/2” (1.2 cm) seam allowance.

12. With right sides together, sew the front shoulder to the back shoulder with 1/2” (1.2cm) seam allowance. Repeat for the opposite side.

13. With right sides together, sew the back facing pieces together with 1/2” (1.2cm) seam allowance.

14. With right sides together, sew the front facing to the back facing at the shoulder seams with 1/2” (1.2cm) seam allowance. Repeat for the opposite side.

15. With right sides together, align the facing neckline edge to the neckline edge of the body. Sew together with 3/8” (1cm) seam allowance. Pivot at the the dot at the center front edge. Stop sewing at the dot on the bottom edge.

16. Understitch the neckline seam allowance towards the facing all around the neck and to bottom of center front edge, pivoting at the same points as illustrated in step 15. Turn back the facing to the previous position where right sides are together. 

17. With right sides together, sew the armhole edge of the facing to the armhole edge of the body with 3/8” (1cm) seam allowance. Repeat for the opposite side.

18. Working on the right side of the garment, understitch the armhole seam allowance towards the facing. Start at the front underarm and go up as far as you can towards the shoulder seam and stop. Repeat for the back armhole, starting at the back underarm. Repeat for the opposite side.

19. Turn the dress/vest right side out by pulling the front body to the back through the tunnel of the shoulder. Repeat for the opposite side. Once the garment is right side out, press the neckline and armhole edges flat.

20. Time to close the side seams! Flip the armhole facing up/away from the body. With right sides together, align the front and back body along the side seams, also aligning the facings at the side seams. Sew together with 1/2” (1.2cm) seam allowance. Repeat for the opposite side.

21. Turnback the facing edge with the narrowest turnback you can manage (recommending 1/4” (6mm) or less. Iron flat and then edgestitch next to the folded edge to secure the turnback to the facing. 

22. On the inside of the garment, tack the lower edge of the facing to the body at underarms, center back and princess seams, invisibly either by hand or machine.

23. At the bottom center front hem edge, turn the facing and outer body so right sides are together. Sew the bottom center front edge and the facing together with 1/2” (1.2cm) seam allowance. Turn right side out and press flat. 

24. For the remaining bottom hem you can either turn back the edge 1/2” (1.2cm) towards the wrong side and topstitch/blindstitch or you can turn back the edge 1/4” (6mm) twice towards the wrong side and topstitch. The hem turn back should be level where the facing finished. 

25. Use the button placement guide on the facing pieces to mark the position of the buttons. Position the button and buttonholes as per sketch- buttons on wearers left side, buttonholes on wearers right side.
Tip: Mark the position before making the holes and try the garment on. One button should be placed at your apex level to prevent gaping. Re-space if necessary.

 

And Voila! You have a Sazerac Dress. What do you think? Make sure to tag your makes on Instagram using #SBCCSazerac


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